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Learn
about the Raw Foods Dangers!
Nutritional Demands for St. Bernards
Giant breed dogs have
special nutritional needs -- you have to consider 1) that they are dogs, and 2) that their
bodies require special consideration because they grow so much faster, and have certain
propensities for problems that medium, small, and toy breeds don't have.
The food you choose to put in
your dog's bowl plays an incredibly important part in his overall well-being,
his appearance, and -- YES -- even his attitude! Poor nutrition
can cause skin ailments, digestive problems, poor bone and muscle development,
dull, coarse, sparse coat, and in some cases, can even contribute to aggression
problems!
The following is an excerpt from Bloat Notes
-- Purdue
University:
J. Zentek
and H. Meyer: Normal handling of diets -- are all dogs created equal? Journal of Small
Animal Practice 36:354-359, 1995.
The answer to the title question is no,
according to this paper from Hannover, Germany, which showed significant differences
between Great Danes and Beagles in their ability to digest nutrients.
The authors noted that food tolerance differs
among breeds, especially in the giant breeds, which can have increased frequency of soft
stools. They measured apparent digestibility (difference between nutrient intake and fecal
output) in four 5-day feeding trials. Four commercial diets, 2 canned and 2 dry [brands
not identified], were tested in 3 Great Danes and 3-5 Beagles. Great Danes had lower
ability to digest most nutrients in 3 of 4 trials, and also had a significantly higher
fecal loss of water, sodium, and potassium.
An earlier study by these investigators showed
that Great Danes have a smaller digestive tract relative to body weight compared to
smaller breeds. This may account in part for the difference in digestive capability.
Comment -- This study illustrates the
importance of considering possible breed differences when evaluating the role of diet in
bloat or other diseases. In the new prospective study (see p.1) we will ask owners about
the composition (reported on the label) of the diets they are feeding. If owners can
provide this information, it will allow evaluation of the effect of dietary composition on
bloat risk in each of the breeds studied. -- Ed.
I feel, personally, that these
considerations are very valid -- it makes sense that if you feed you dog smaller amounts
of a food that doesn't swell as much, that the risk of bloat is reduced. In order to
be able to feed those smaller amounts, though, you have to feed a better quality of food,
so that the dog's health isn't compromised in other ways.
The first consideration is whether to
feed canned or dry. Canned food is generally a waste of your nutritional
dollars, when compared to dry foods of the same quality. For
example, if you compare the ingredient list between a mid-priced canned dog food and that
of a mid-priced dry dog food that lists meat as the first ingredient, you'll see that you
are able to feed less actual food and maintain the dog's nutritional needs at the same
time (you'll appreciate this concept when cleaning up the toilet area). This is
because the water is taken from the dry food -- a cup of dry holds alot more,
nutritionally, than a cup of canned.
Next, consider the ingredient list.
Personally, I believe that dogs require meat as a main source of their nutritional
requirements -- dogs that are fed a vegan diet tend toward some very serious
problems. They are, in fact, carnivores, and meat provides a much more usable
source of nutrients. So, I always make sure that the first ingredient listed is
meat. But, there are many forms of "meat", when you begin reading labels
-- I don't like feeding my dogs things that would make me cringe if I were to find them on
my own plate (at this point, it's important to put aside the thought that, given the
chance, there are many dogs that will eat feces -- just because they'll eat it, doesn't
mean it's good for them!) So, the label should say "chicken",
"beef", or "lamb", rather than "chicken meal", "chicken
by-products", etc. These terms can (and often DO!!) mean just about anything --
a better term would be "mystery animal product". When feeding meats, also
consider that dogs can have allergic reactions to meats (although it's more likely the
processing that causes the problem), so try to feed chicken or lamb, which have less
chance of causing these problems. Organ meats are preferred over other sources --
the liver, kidneys, etc. are much higher sources of nutrients than the chicken breast.
Consider, also, additives such as food
colorings. Pretty food is not high on your Saint's list of priorities -- he doesn't
much care WHAT it looks like, so long as it smells and tastes like food. Dogs are,
for the most part, color blind -- those pretty colors are in there to make YOU feel better
about what you're feeding your dog. Those pretty colors have been shown to
contribute to food-related allergies and dermatitis. If you want him to have a nice
shiny coat, lose the pretty colors in his kibble.
Another major consideration in your
pet's overall health is the amount and kinds of preservatives used -- do you really NEED
for your Saint's dog food to have a shelf life of 60 months? If you buy a 40-pound
bag every week, your dog's food only needs to make it from the store to the bowl.
And, I'd rather not purchase food for my girls that has already spent a year or
more sitting at
the grocery store -- I don't much care for stale food, myself.
**Beware of MSG -- Saints have an
incredibly high rate (when compared to other breeds) of diagnosed seizure activity.
MSG (a preservative) has been shown to cause seizures -- how much of the epilepsy
diagnosed in our dogs is actually a result of the commercial processing of their food??
St. Bernards have very specific
nutritional needs -- their bodies experience an explosive rate of growth over the first 18
months. Because of the rapid development of bone and muscle mass during this time,
and the breed's propensity for such problems as arthritis, OCD, and dysplasia, it's
important that these dogs receive protein and calcium in quantities that are just high
enough to allow development. **Exercise in the right amounts AND UNDER THE RIGHT
CIRCUMSTANCES is also a huge factor in the development of proper bone and muscle
mass.** See the article on Arthritis, OCD, and Dysplasia
for more information on the role of exercise in treatment.
There is nothing wrong in adding variety
to your dog's diet, so long as the variety doesn't cause obesity, or cause him to stop
eating the main part of his diet -- which should be kibble. My dogs get
treats in
training -- bits of cheese, beef hotdogs, grapes, orange sections, sliced apple,
popcorn, watermelon -- if I'm eating it, chances are, I'm sharing. I also make
treats for my dogs. I use recipes that don't have many ingredients,
because I like to
know what they're eating. They also get people food mixed into their kibble -- this
is NOT table scraps!! (For the record, my definition of "table scraps" are
those items left at the end of a meal that no one would eat -- my feeling is, if it's not
good for me, it's not good for them!) This is people food, specifically prepared to
highlight my dogs' kibble -- and, it's MIXED IN, not just plopped on top. I mix in
lots of different things, to add variety. Apple sauce, green beans, cottage cheese,
peanut butter (a couple of tablespoons, microwaved for 30 seconds -- it's very easy to
coat each tiny piece of kibble, and they love this!) -- try different things. Dogs
have definite likes and dislikes, just as people do.
A word or two about processing:
when foods are cooked, much of the available nutrients are lost. When you use higher
quality foods, there is more available in the first place -- the shorter the ingredient
list, the better, and the less heat-processing, the better. Foods should be as close
to their "raw" state as possible. This does cut down on the "shelf
life" -- but, as I stated before, exactly how long does your dog's food need to sit
there, anyway?
So, what does all this mean, in terms of
what you should bring home for your dog? Generally speaking, you get what you
pay for. If you feed an economy food, chances are there is very little in the
way of usable nutrients available in what you're feeding, so you have to feed your dog
alot more of the economy foods than you would if you were feeding the premium
grades. This is an incredibly important concept, particularly when dealing
with giant breeds! In feeding a mid-quality, low-cost commercial food, I was feeding
a total of 14 cups daily to 2 14-month-old Saints. Since switching to a
super-premium
brand, my dogs are eating a total of 5 cups, daily. What this means, is that Cis,
my very picky girl (she's actually prone to anorexia), is now getting what she needs in
her diet (please read Cis' Journal, for some
startling new findings!). She just wasn't interested in eating the amounts required, before.
Now, she's able to eat enough to satisfy her physiological needs, because it takes
MUCH less.

One last consideration -- I had
settled on Neura Wellness White Fish & Sweet Potato, made by Old
Mother Hubbard. This is a *very* highly-acclaimed food, and I was
pleased with it, except for the increase in waste. The dogs ate this food
for 2 1/2 months. They'd been on Solid
Gold before Neura Wellness, and there was a slight increase in using *that*.
Let me compare this for you, so that you'll understand:
On November 24th, 2000, my dogs ate their last Neura Wellness meal, for the
evening meal. On that day, I scooped constantly, all day long, as I always
do. I gathered *2* average-sized plastic grocery bags of poop. 3
dogs. Please bear in mind that my dogs are only eating 5 cups -- PER DAY
-- each. There was more COMING OUT than there was GOING IN!!! Don't
ask me how this was possible, but I swear that's how it felt!!!
On November 25th, 2000, we started feeding Flint
River Ranch. We went
cold-turkey, and there was no diarrhea or other signs of gastrointestinal
distress. November 26th, I scooped 1/2 bag of poop -- for the ENTIRE DAY.
And I've still got 3 dogs here... still eating their 5 cups each per day.
I'll put it to you this way: if more stays in than comes out, it's better
for the dog -- more is being USED by the body. And, as a result, I had
time for other things -- I'm not spending all my time scooping.
Brenda Rushman, Web Author

These links will help you to learn more
about canine nutritional requirements and dog food:
Vets
and Pet Food
Food
Even a Dog Shouldn't Eat - Killing Our Pets with Every Meal
AAFCO DEFINITIONS OF DOG FOOD
INGREDIENTS -- The AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) sets
guidelines and definitions for animal feed, including pet foods.
Dog Eat Dog -- There 's a retail boom
going on in in North America. While consumer spending is down in many areas, savvy
companies have learned that there is very little the doting owner can deny their pet. The
result is a virtual explosion of products, toys and pet foods. In fact, one of the most
profitable items on the shelf at your local grocer's is not steak - it's dog food.
Some premium foods to consider:
Flint
River Ranch

Treat Recipes
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